My very first backpacking trip back in 2010 was definitely an eye-opener. The idea kick started when I was still teaching accounts in a secondary school and my students reminded me that March holidays were coming up in a week's time. I decided to go on a break, however I realised that flight tickets were already out of my budget. So I thought, maybe I should try the train, something that I haven't been on.
I bought the ticket for Butterworth-Bangkok from KTM in Johor Bahru because it was much cheaper to get from the booth direct than to book online or buy in their then sg counter. I made a trip to JB just to get the ticket. A second-class air-conditioned sleeper train (lower bed) one way ticket costed RM120. Having the trip originating in Butterworth meant that I will need to get a coach ticket up to Butterworth. That was simple. Just head over to Merlin Tower and buy a coach ticket. The coach ticket to Butterworth from JB costs RM65 if not wrong.
On the day of departure, I 'checked in' at 10pm at Merlin Tower and got transferred to Larkin Bus Terminal in a small van to board the 10:30pm coach to Butterworth. I cannot remember how long was the coach journey, but it was daybreak when I arrived in Butterworth, Penang. So first night was spent on the coach and first day in Butterworth!
I explored around by foot for a while, took some rustic photos and went on to flag a cab to a famous temple for sight seeing. The temple was a taoist one that is diagonally across Apollow Market where I had breakfast. Nice Jawa noodles, small watermelon, dim sum and some other local delights that I haven't tried before.
Hailed a cab off the corner of Apollow Market and met a nice driver, so I used him for the rest of the day. He dropped me at the shopping area where I did some shopping, visited a Thai buddhist temple then called him to pick me up. Knowing that there's still some time before my train departure timing hits, he even brought me sight seeing in his cab, taking longer route to see the Penang hill opposite and did some explanation here and there before dropping me at Butterworth Railway Station.
My train arrived on time at 2 pm and I boarded the two passenger cabin train. It was clean and nicely air-cond. Very comfortable ride. More sight seeing along the way for about three hours before the train attendant came to convert our chairs into flat bed after dinner. The lower bed costs slightly more expensive and is quickly sold out due to the convenience and view. It's just like a capsule hotel, plus big window. There is a lamp, drinks holder and a compartment to store loose items. Pillow provided. This is a must try for travellers. Managed to have small chats with other seasoned travellers on board and one of them have made the sleeper train journey a staple throughout the years. He was bound for home in Europe after years of travelling in Asia, and he just had to take the sleeper once more to round up his beautiful adventures. His bed is right opposite mine and he volunteered to help me take a picture because he felt this will be part of an unforgettable journey. Indeed.
The two cabin passenger train makes a brief stop at all the train station en route and sometimes it takes a while for the train to connect new passengers cabin onto the existing two that started off in Butterworth. Thus, as the journey progress, the train becomes longer and longer. Obviously, the sleeper cabin is the last two. There is a meal cabin that separates the normal passenger cabins from the sleeper ones. That is where we get our beer fix and meals.
Dinner was served at our seats before converting the seats into bed. It's like aviation style of service. The attendant comes over and take your order, set up your table and delivers your hot meal. My set meal consists of tom yum soup, veg soup, fried cashew nut with chicken and rice. Dessert was pineapple. I have to stand by this. This thai meal, is by far one of the best I've had in Thailand. Oh yeah, remember to prepare your baht to pay. Second night of the trip spent on the train.
After about 20 hours, the train arrived at Hualamphong station. The start of my Bangkok adventure. Took a motorbike taxi to my accomodation in Khao San.
Second day was spent in Khao San. Stayed in Sawasdee Smile Inn for this first backpack trip and was pretty satisfied that in the second backpack trip I went back again. It was about SGD35 a night in a private en-suite, air conditioned room. Towel, tv and breakfast included. The inn/hostel is tucked at the end of Chao Fa Road, at the bustling Khao San area. It is so close to action, yet quiet enough for some rest. There is a good massage parlour right opposite it as well. A delicious pizza bar just 20 steps away.
Lots of street food vendor along Khao San, spoilt for choices, and they are finger licking good. You can spent dinner time at the street vendors with seating, have a beer and some dishes, enjoy chatting with the vendor. While we were doing so, a rider which was trying to park beside the vendor's stall actually missed his direction and crashed into us lightly. It 'pushed' the vendor who was seated beside me, chatting with me. But it ended up with a good laugh. Good sport.
Third day was spent sight seeing in Bangkok, visiting the grand palace and some museums which are accessible by foot from Khao San. Night time was spent in Patpong drinking beer. Not exactly a place that I'll love to revisit, but have to experience the ladyboys once. Also went to yaowarat and chatuchak but forgot which day it was. Probably on the fourth day of my trip.
The hostel/inn's tour desk offered reasonably priced tours so I took up one to Ratchaburi. The one that brought me to Dameon Saduak Floating Market, long tail boat ride, python show and some places. Fifth day.
Took a night coach to Phuket for Muay Thai. It departs at 7 or 7:30pm I can't remember. However it was quite hard to communicate with the driver and his helper as they only spoke Thai. Thankfully the few phrases I picked up along the way helped in at least identifying whether I've reached my destination or not. The coach's ultimate destination may be Phuket, but ferries passengers to Surat Thani and many other places. Good way to see the many different cities in a hurry. Sixth night spent in the overnight coach.
This is one of the landmarks in Surat Thani. Very near to Bangkok.
On the way to Phuket, the coach will go through a heavily forested area that features scary steep roads that kept me awake.
And that place is known as the Khao Sok National Park. Home of many natural waterfalls. Very nice place to pass by. The bus driver was nice enough to slow down slightly whenever he sighted a waterfall and his helper will point the waterfall out to us.
For cost savings, travellers to Phuket were asked to transfer into a smaller van en route. So we were just asked to alight at a road side and waited for the van transfer to arrive. Luckily there were a few of us so it wasn't that scary. Imagine being dumped at a roadside with a man who spoke only Thai. The communication we could get through was the word 'Phuket'.
Finally after reaching Phuket bus station, I took a motorbike taxi to Rawai Muay Thai. Actually I didn't plan on going there. My original plan was to another one I printed out, which was nearer to city centre. But there was some miscommunication between the motorbike taxi rider and I so I ended up in Rawai, the southern most tip of Phuket. He insisted that Rawai Muay Thai was better than the ones I printed. Later on, I'm really thankful for his recommendation.
I arrived in the late afternoon and they had no problem assigning me a room which was just by the ringside. My roommate was an Australian lady who have been training for several months. It was a twin sharing room with individual fan and shared fridge. Rawai Muay Thai also have authentic gears on sale. Training is twice a day. With martial arts background, I had no problem learning the basics. My trainer, Jang, was good in teaching and had good skills. I loved my time at Rawai Muay Thai. I have kept the Rawai Muay Thai tshirt till date. Please also note that Rawai Muay Thai has relocated to Khao Lak as of this blog post.
There is a cafe beside Rawai Muay Thai where meal plans can be purchased, some cafes down the road as well. Rented a motorbike and pushed back to the gym as I have no license and didn't know how to ride one. Fellow trainees helped and got me started and I went zipping around Phuket. To the beach for seafood, city for supermarket and just leisure riding.
Their clams have flesh the size of our 50 cents coin, and excellent condiments. Sour and spicy. Sat in bamboo huts and ate my seafood. Anyway I chose this stall because it had the easiest parking. HAHAHA! Price wise, it was cheap. Less than SGD5 for a big plate of bbq clams. If you are free, you can ride to the seaside where there is a locals market in Rawai.
To end my three nights adventure in Rawai Muay Thai, I booked a trip to Phuket Fantasea, which was at the other end of Phuket! It was well worth the journey and money. I did not ride there as I was told that the road there is very challenging and requires more than a full tank of oil. It was really very far!
However, I had a really good time at Fantasea with its exhibits, showcases and of course the finale show. Pictured above is a white tiger.
On the eleventh day, I checked out of Rawai Muay Thai and prepared for onward journey to Krabi. I didn't bear to leave the nice gym and a second glance at it costed me a leg. I missed the only Song Thaew that ran in the morning to the bus station. So I had to take a motorbike taxi again. It stopped at a curbside at the station and I couldn't alight from my left due to the curb. So I alighted on my right. Before I knew, my calf was burnt from the contact with the bike's exhaust pipe, and to make it worse, my skin was ripped by the downward dragging motion. I felt the pain on my calf but still didn't realise what happened. I only saw a shiny part of the exhaust pipe. I did not realise the severity of my burn.
As I said, I was looking to go to Krabi. But it wasn't a solid plan. I didn't have a ticket or even knowledge of bus timing. So I approached the counter and stated my intention. Got a ticket which stated a past departure timing. Which means I am late by 5-10mins! Quickly ran to the berth, to a yelling attendant and boarded the bus. It was a local bus. Very squeezy. Had to squeeze three people in a two seater for few hours. Definitely not the best situation to be in, especially with a burn injury which I struggled to paste a plaster on.
The bus travelled through Phang Nga and I saw some water houses and country side.
After I reached Krabi, I was dropped at Ao Nang beach area. Following my lonely planet guidebook, I went to check out few hostels but they were full. Ended up staying in Sea World Guest House where owner Jenny gave great hospitality. She cooked great pad thai, great with Chang. While I was using the computer, she also brought some local Thai fruits to share with me. Free use of beach mat. She have some very good recommendations as well. She told me to walk towards noparatthara beach and I will be able to chance by these beautiful islands by foot. I was told to come back to main beach before 5pm that day, if not I will not be able to walk back due to rise in tide.
See how beautiful these islands are. Most importantly, accessible by foot during low tide. And she was right, shortly after, tide became higher and it was impossible to visit the islands anymore. There, you can see really nice and large sea shells.
At night, I went to look for a doctor for my burn but the nearest doctor was away for two weeks. I tried looking for burn-aid in pharmacies but they don't stock that. Went for food instead. Had roti. It was nice, as usual. Went back to Jenny and she told me to put toothpaste first. First aid trained, I wouldn't want to put toothpaste. But desperate times call for desperate measures and the toothpaste provided instant relief.
I opened up my email only to find that Tigerair had rescheduled my flight home from Hatyai to another day. With a burn on my calf, the pain and all, I wasn't ready to extend my trip. With Jenny's help, she secured a next day morning bus to Hatyai for me.
Twelveth day on the road. After a good Thai breakfast by the beach, Jenny waited with me by the road for my bus to Hatyai. A van came, Jenny confirmed its destination and off I go again.
The van had a lunch stopover at Trang where we were allowed a break from the confined van. Hopped back on after about 45 minutes break to continue to Hatyai. I was determined to get home quick for medical attention. After another few hours on the road, we finally arrived in Hatyai! Immediately got a night ticket to KL. Walked around the city centre and had some good food. Generally Hatyai reminds me of Malaysia. Similar in many ways and I didn't really like Hatyai.
The night bus took us across the border into Malaysia. Stopover was at Changloon. Had supper and visited the night market. After which, slept on the bus and arrived in KL at 4 or 5am.
Took the earliest available bus back to Singapore and that concluded my 13 days adventure.
Thankfully I was back for medical treatment as it was rather serious according to the doctor as my skin was ripped and thus exposing the flesh. I tried to cover the wound with the remaining skin but still, three quarter of the burn was exposed and I still have the scar. The one-quarter that got covered back did not leave a scar, but the rest did. So, be very careful. Or simply, wear long pants!
