Monday, September 2, 2013

Bespoke Galore!

By starting this post with 'Bespoke', is actually to get your attention. What's better than starting with a seemingly profound word that will make you hit the dictionaries. We all get to learn more in the process.

So as it goes, I am not exactly going to talk about bespoke in depth, or rather, I would like to highlight bespoke against made-to-measure shirts. Many people are just using the word 'bespoke' so casually that it had lost its significance and  real flavour.

Bespoke is not just any made-to-measure shirt. It is an art.

It really grinds my gears when 'bespoke' and 'made-to-measure' are mixed up.

Bespoke tailoring is custom making an apparel to its finest. I will talk about shirts definitely. All your measurements in all areas that you can imagine and not, carefully taken in order to make the piece of art. Bespoke, you do it your way. Like your cuffs half an inch shorter and one inch wider to proudly display your Panerai? Not an issue. Practically, play around with all that you have in mind. It is custom, any thing is possible. Of course, there is a high price to pay for Bespoke shirts. To which, I have not earned enough dole to indulge in this fine art.

Ah well. Made-to-measure shirts are definitely more affordable. I would say the pricing is like a buffer between bespoke shirts and off-the-rack shirts.

Why do people go for Made-to-measure shirts when there are such a wide variety of off-the-rack shirts which are so readily available and equally good in quality and fit? Even though some people might get the perfect fit from off-the-rack, however, the differing body size and proportions are so unique to individuals that it is really quite hard to get the perfect fit if you are very particular. Some lucky ones might be able to get nicely fitted shirts off-the-rack or just do some alterations to it to get it good. But others might not be so lucky, and it is really not alright to wear badly fitted shirts to work or to meet clients. At first glance/meeting, our appearance reflects what we are mostly, or what we impression we want to leave of ourselves. I really don't mean to be judgmental but this is how our brain works.

Alright, so made-to-measure shirts are more like off-the-rack shirts with custom sizing. Unlike bespoke shirts where you can really get down to details as to what your preferences are, made-to-measure offers less. However, it is equally good in getting a nice fitted shirt with nice material to show-off your Panerai, but maybe just not that perfect as body measurements are usually taken at several fixed spots. The very standard ones like neck, shoulders, chest, arm length, waist, hip; skipping nitty gritty details like upper arms, wrists, mid-rifts etc. But this should do the trick for generally everyone including me.

Having worked for a year, the love for good shirts really grew in me. I loved the fit of my Armani white shirt which I wore for my graduation ball, job interview, convocation, Sunday Times photo shoot featured in my profile picture here, and all important events. However, just one good fitted shirt is not the solution to everything. I decided to try made-to-measure shirts in Bangkok during my most recent trip there due to much lower price and good reviews online. I will probably review them in next post or so if time permits.

I am very particular about my shirts. I want the seam to fall right at the end of my shoulder where it meets my arms. Loves novelty cuffs e.g. cocktail & french cuffs. Contrast but no bad combinations please. No Italian collar for sure. No pockets. Right length, not too long when I tuck out and not too short to show my belly when I raise my arms. Quite hard to get it off-the-rack. Figured out that this could be due to my mum's influence. I grew up to the cluttering of the sewing machine in my house. My late mum used to be a seamstress and tailor of wedding gown and some other apparels.

All in all, I must say, formal wear is not meant to be uncomfortable. I love my made-to-measure shirts.

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